Understanding Vegan in Fashion: are we using the term properly? 

Defining what is Vegan in fashion can be intricate and complex. When we began our research to develop our sustainability rating system, we immediately recognised the confusion that surrounds the topic and the importance of clarifying to fully understand which materials can indeed be defined as vegan.

But let's start from the very beginning. 

Veganism: A Lifestyle Philosophy

The term "vegan" was originally coined in 1944 when Donald Watson, along with his wife and four friends, founded the Vegan Society. It was meant to define a philosophy and way of life that seeks to exclude, as far as possible and practicable, all forms of exploitation and cruelty to animals for food, clothing, or any other purpose. 

By extension, we can say that veganism promotes the development and use of animal-free alternatives for the benefit of humans, animals, and the environment. 

Vegan in Fashion

In the realm of fashion, the vegan trend is not entirely new: technically, our evergreen organic cotton white tee or our denim jeans, for instance, are vegan as they do not contain any animal-derived substances. 

Over the past decade, "vegan" and "cruelty-free" have become buzzwords, popping up everywhere from clothing labels to beauty products: there's been a noticeable shift in awareness around these terms. More and more people are embracing vegan principles beyond just their diet, extending them to their fashion choices. 

But are we truly understanding and using these labels correctly? 

Let's dive into what certifications suggest.

Vegan certifications

"Vegan fashion" refers to clothing made without any fabrics, materials, or ingredients derived from animals. This excludes all types of fur and leather, including exotic skins from crocodiles, alligators, lizards, ostriches, or snakes. It also extends to wool and wool-like fabrics, such as mohair, cashmere, angora, alpaca, and any knitwear made from animal hair or fleece. 

Furthermore, we’ve taken into account that in the fashion industry, we apply the term Vegan to materials that aesthetically and functionally mimic animal-derived materials. So, aesthetic alternatives to leather, fur, feathers, silk, and wool are considered.

But let’s see what vegan certifications say.

Eurofins certification: vegan beyond the animal-derived material 

[...] There is some consensus that it depends on the extent to which something is “animal-free”, and whether it uses “zero animal by-products” [...] the concept of a product made from vegan materials goes beyond just the absence of animal-derived material such as leather, feathers, and fur and warrants assurance that any chemicals used in the production of the product and its materials have not been derived from animal origin. 

BeVeg Certified Vegan Product: plant-based vs cruelty-free

Not of animal origin. No animal cross-contamination. No animal exploitation and without animal suffering. A Vegan product to the expectant consumer means free from animal material and cruelty-free. Veganism goes far beyond plant-based food and dietary choices; it spans all industry sectors. All Vegan product claims are plant-based and cruelty-free, but all plant-based claims are not necessarily Vegan and do not imply cruelty-free. 

“Animal-free”, is this attribute enough? 

If we only consider the two attributes of the definition of Vegan mentioned now 

• No animal cross-contamination

• aesthetically or functionally reproducing a material of animal origin

Then we should also consider synthetic leather or faux fur – it’s often just plastic, as we know.

Therefore, our central question becomes: When defining vegan in fashion, is it our responsibility to also consider the environmental impact?

Ethical vs. Environmental Sustainability: a matter of priorities

Firstly, we need to make a distinction between ethical and environmental sustainability. Although these are two closely related concepts, they focus on different aspects of sustainability. 

Ethical sustainability revolves around social justice and respect for human and animal rights, while environmental sustainability centres on reducing environmental impact by minimizing natural resource consumption and pollution.

Being vegan certainly falls under ethical sustainability, but can it also be considered environmentally sustainable?

Vegan doesn’t always mean “sustainable”

What is technically defined today as vegan fashion can also be incredibly harmful to the planet. Specifically, fossil fuel-based materials (aka plastic) may technically not contain animal-derived products or by-products, but these fabrics are among the most damaging to the planet.

Many vegan alternatives, such as synthetic fabrics like polyester and nylon, heavily rely on non-renewable resources and contribute to environmental degradation. 

As the demand for ethical and sustainable fashion continues to grow, addressing these issues within the realm of vegan fashion becomes crucial, prompting consumers and industry stakeholders to reassess the real environmental impact of their choices.

Vegan: a new definition

Simply declaring the absence of animal-derived components is not sufficient; it is essential to clarify the presence of requirements that also consider environmental sustainability. 

At DAMō, we believe that the term "vegan" must be expanded upon. We believe veganism should mean sustainable too. 

So let’s define vegan a "material produced from natural raw materials without the use of inputs derived from animals, e.g. through the recovery of agricultural waste, with final product technical and aesthetic characteristics similar to traditional ones.”

Vegan material must not contain 

For this reason, vegan materials cannot be defined as those containing: 

• Leather

• Wool

• Silk

• Cashmere

• Alpaca

• Mohair

• Fur

• Angora

• Feathers 

Conclusion

When we say "vegan," we don't just mean free from animal products; we mean that our fashion choices should not harm the planet. This includes selecting materials that are sustainably sourced, ensuring production processes that minimize environmental impact, and promoting the use of renewable resources and ethical labor practices.

Our vision at DAMō is to redefine vegan fashion as a holistic approach that integrates cruelty-free principles with environmental stewardship. We prioritize fabrics made from organic, recycled, or low-impact materials, and we champion innovations that reduce waste and carbon footprints. 

By doing so, we aim to set a new standard in the industry where vegan fashion not only respects animal rights but also contributes positively to the health of our planet.

References:
Vegan Society, About Us, https://www.vegansociety.com/about-us/history
Vegan Certification of Vegan Materials with Eurofins Chem-MAP, https://chem-map.com/vegan-certification-materials/#modules%EF%BB%B
The Difference Between Cruelty-Free, Vegan, and Plant-Based Label Claims, https://www.beveg.com/the-difference-between-cruelty-free-vegan-and-plant-based-label-claims/